The soap maker usually has specific ratios of different oils (vegetable / nut / animal) and fats, with specific curing times and conditions, which along with the other ingredients, become the "secret recipe"!
| Abrasives |
Pumice, zeolite, oatmeal, herbs….to exfoliate the skin (remove outer layers) |
| Aqua |
water |
| Baking soda |
See sodium bicarbonate |
| Benzoin |
Eeither natural or synthetic compound to fix the perfume scent (hold it in the soap) and as a preservative. |
| Caustic soda / sodium hydroxide / NaOH |
Lye |
| Cetearyl alcohol |
A non-ionic surfactant |
| Cetrimonium bromide |
Cationic surfactant and anti-septic agent |
| Citric acid |
Weak organic acid and preservative, and acts as an anti-oxidant. Can act as a chelate, which means it binds with metals in hard water, improving the soaps’ foaming capacity |
| Colours (by number) |
Artificial colouring unless specified otherwise |
| Disodium Distyrylbiphenyl disulfonate |
|
| EDTA, Ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid |
A chelating agent which has many differing chemical forms. Used to create a stable chemical compound that is soluble in water and ‘hold’ components that otherwise may precipitate or fall out. A preservative and suspension agent. |
| Essential Oils |
Distillates from herbs to improve healing / soothing action. Usually quite expensive for quality product. |
| Fragrance |
Perfume |
| Goats milk |
usually added as a fat source for the initial reaction |
| Glyceryl stearate and glycerol mono-sterate |
An emulsifier, usually derived from vegetable fatty acids |
| Glycerine / glycerol |
Emollient and humectant. It attracts water, and therefore gives the skin a moist feel. It is produced during the soap making process, but often removed before the soap cures |
| Kaolin |
Increases covering capacity |
| Lanolin |
Usually derived from wool, it is a skin ointment and water proofing wax. |
| Lye |
Sodium hydroxide, Potassium hydroxide (or a mix of both) |
| NaOH (Caustic soda) |
Will give a harder soap and caustic potash (KOH) will give a softer soap. Oils with a high oleic acid concentration may yield a liquid soap. Lye is a general term for either. |
| Oils (such as coconut, palm, olive, rice bran, almond oil, etc) |
To provide a unique texture and scent to the soap (often a blend is used), to provide the “fat” for the initial saponification reaction, a smooth skin feel, to capture the healing / health properties of the oil itself, to create a ‘super-fatted’product with enhanced lathering |
| Palm Kernel |
Oily flesh from the seed of the oil palm = source of “fat”for the saponification reaction. |
| Parabins / Parabens |
A range of chemicals which act as a preservative. They have anti bacterial and fungicidal properties. Rumuoured to mimic oestrogen. Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate, methyl paraben, Propyl paraben |
| Parfum |
French for perfume (just pure snobbiness) |
| PEG Stearate or PEG-100 Stearate |
Polyethylene glycol. So this is a mix of polyethylene glycol and stearic acid.. Usually derived from palm oil. Used as a thickener and emulsifier. |
| Perfumes |
Usually synthetically derived in “commercial” soaps: A ‘natural’soap maker would make a point of naturally derived perfumes as these are an expensive component of the soap”. Generally added at 0.5-1.0%, but may be up to 4% |
| Polyethylene / Polythene |
One the main constituents of plastic manufacture. Used in soaps as hardening agent and to reduce cracking. |
| Propylene Glycol |
Attracts water (a humectant) so is used a moisturizer. Also used an an anti-freeze and a carrier for fragrant oils. Number E1520 |
| Sodium bicarbonate |
Baking soda. It is used in bath fizzy bombs; causes water to become slightly alkaline (increase pH). When added to warm water, it produces CO2 in a mild bubbling action in a bath, or helping a loaf of bread to rise. Sodim Bicarb also acts as a deodouriser, cleanser, stabiliser, mild preservative. Through neutralising acids in the skin, it can act as an exfoliating agent, which can give the skin a clean “moist” and ‘tingly’ feel. |
| Sodium chloride |
Plain old salt, or table salt, or sea salt (although seas salt will contain a number of impurities and an appreciable amount of Magnesium chloride). Salt may be added to help curdle the soap |
| Sodium cocoyl isethionate & sodium isethionate |
Cleansers derived from coconut oil. |
| Sodium Lactate |
Humectant - helps binding with water, reduce water loss from the soap, keeps the weight of soap high (basically a marketing tool to sell water) |
| Sodium Stearate |
A surfactant |
| Sodium Stearate |
|
| Sodium laurel sulphate |
Anionic surfactant. Can be a slightly irritant, leaving the skin with a dry feeling |
| Sodium Palmitate |
A common saturated fatty acid.
Laboratory tests with rats showed interference with insulin metabolism. |
| Sodium Palm Stearate |
A salt of stearic acid |
| Soya Lecithin |
Amino acids from the Soya Bean plant. Acts as an emulsifier, stabilizer, anti-oxidant. Often included in products for dry skin. |
| Stearic acid |
A colourless, odourless organic fatty acid (derived from animal and vegetable fats). Acts as an emollient and emulsifier. |
| Tartaric acid (Cream of tartar) |
An acid used to regulate pH of a product. Occurs naturally in nature but usually synthetically produced |
| Tetrasodium EDTA |
Water softener and binding agent which helps keep materials in suspension and can act as preservative. |
| Tetrasodium Etidronate |
EDTA |
| Titanium dioxide |
Will absorb UV rays so is the main active ingredient in sun-block. Also acts as spreading agent, increasing covering capacity |
| Tocopheryl |
Vitamin E |
| Vitamin E |
Can be extracted from natural sources, but usually synthetically produced, claimed to reduce oxidation damage to the soap (stop the soap going rancid) and oxidation damage to the skin. |
| Zinc oxide |
A concentrated form of zinc. Zinc has many skin curative properties, but must be applied with care. Can improve covering capacity and act as a mild antispetic . |